古鎮城壘 2 Entrevaux

開車到達Allos之前，

 

兩口子途中皆休息了一會兒, 

皆在途中在二千多年歷史的 Entrevaux四處走走,

這裡周圍環繞著橄欖樹林,石灰岩小山,

常駐的 人口  Populations  742 Habitants

70 km from Nice , 80 km  Digne.

 

這城樓就是城牆的一部分,童話故事裡 。

週末Journée du Patrimoine經過Entrevaux生氣勃勃的,

整個的古鎮居民啟動, 為這一齣歷史劇演出

一大群人換了古代裝束在轉來轉去;

看起來不像是穿戴著古代衣服去參加晚會。

有古代十字勳章武士, 紡織市民他蓄著短鬍子,

把玉米拿到磨坊去的農民....

              傍晚 舉辦音樂晚會 , 星期六晚上舉辦的慶祝會,

但我們得趕路沒有等待巡遊。

紀念古代節日 Fetes Medievales, Medievales Festival

安排的節目甚至還更豐富,模擬中古城鎮生活, 戰爭重組,

最後一項節目是大型煙火表演。
   

這一帶接近古代(1860)的法邊境， 有不少防禦堡壘，

追遡這個十七世紀中古村時代的Roman古鎮！

Glandeves 主教建城,

Louis XIV 為加強防禦力於 Entrevaux 修築的軍士堡壘

由軍士專家 Vauban  建造的防禦堡壘,

特別在城堡以往一直作為法國其中一個據點,

政府近年銳意發展旅遊業，

 經過不斷的復修 , 因此城堡保存較完整，

Citadelle開放讓遊客入內參觀。

  城牆 護城河

Citadelle avec cachots, a Moated citadel

River Var was surrounding the town

 

 Ramparts & Citadelle with dungeon and underground passages

Citadelle avec souterrains et fosses,

Port de Royale

 

城堡的入口外觀及結構引起我們的興趣,

城堡有2個like童話故事裡的圓柱體形巨塔,

Deux tours Bastionnees, two Bastionned towers,

從我們巨塔的入口走進去的,

this fort takes half an hour to walk

 

   

巨塔的 Porte de Royale 入口一吊座橋,

古鎮有六入口, 六座吊橋,six Ponts-levis, 6 drawbridges

監獄 Prison de Royale behind the Bastionne,

              

       

                                                           fontain @ Place le Planet

     

                                                   Place Ch Panier
          

           

Chemin de ronde, Porte de France

Remparts, Ramparts with covered watch path

 

 

Cathedrale fortifiee

 

橄欖磨坊Moulins a huile et a farine, 家麵包房

 

                                                                              festival

June: Pelerinage a Saint-Jean du Desert, Saint Jean du Desert

August: 紀念古代節日Fetes Medievales, Medievales Festival

September : 文化的節Journee du Patrimoine , Heritage day

     November: 菌類植物節Journees Mycologiques, Fungus day

     how to reach there ?

Chemins de Fer de Provence , Provence 鐵路

火車之旅 le Train des Pignes 

由尼斯 Nice 到 Digne les Bains，全長151 Km

沿著窄小的單線鐵路行走!

www.entrevaux.info

www.alpes-haute-provence.com

 

千塔之城San Gimignano

自駕歐遊托斯卡納 Toscana其中一大樂趣是

可隨時隨地探訪山中的中古城鎮村落,

因為這一帶有豐富的歷史與藝術，每一個村都有它的特色,

一個教人難忙的中古城鎮有千塔之城美譽的San Gimignano，

'San Gimignano delle belle Torri', 離 Florence 56km,

座落於相互交錯的丘陵以及山中盆地中，

在進入山城前, 在遠處已可看欣賞到一下塔城14座塔樓的全景!

 it was about 10 am in the morning  and we spent half an hour looking for a parking.
There were two to three parking at each gate!

In the friction by John Grisham,  The Broker, Joel Backman takes his second wife on vacation in Italy to keep her from divorcing him. They rent a fourteenth –century monastery near San Gimignano for a month. After reading his book, we made a trip to visit this little town, a medieval town famous among the Italians.

遠處已可看到古城的十三個高塔塔樓的全景，最高有50米,

有眺望、守禦的用途, 是全義大利保存最好的。
這些高塔於十二至十三世紀時，全盛期達72座，現只剩下13座，
這些塔樓，是中世紀貴族與封建大地主的權力及財富象徵,
中世紀貴族的財富都顯示在高塔愈多愈有錢,

走在狹窄的街道，漫步於街道的階梯，

一切彷佛又跌入了中世紀的歷史隧道中。

讓自己慢慢沈澱，靜靜懷想它曾經輝煌燦爛的過往。

The patrician families who controlled the town built around 72 tower-
houses (some as high as 50 m) as symbols of their wealth and power.

Although only 13 have survived, San Gimignano has retained its
 feudal atmosphere and appearance.

1990年，意大利古城San Gimignano被列入世界遺產名單。

San Gimignano是山城，300 m above sea level,
San Gimignano  served as an important relay point for pilgrims,

travelling to or from Rome  on the Via Francigena.

追遡十世紀，由Modena主教San Gimignano建城，

至今仍保留部份城牆, 城牆區內是行人專用區, 嚴禁非居民汽車進入;

all car must park outside the wall。

pic from web

We went to Siena on 25 July of 2005 the day after the hottest day in the summer,  it was so hot that we give up the idea of climbling up the tower! That year, there were hit waves striking Europe again.  Even though it was about 40c still there were tourists everywhere.  It is one of the most popular town for tourists.
 

穿過San Matteo gate    Via San Giovanni 行到上去廣場,好 熱呢!

10am in the morning,  it was already 30 C. 

many people is having 都攞住杯好味 意大利gelato 雪糕on hand!

Entering from north, San Matteo Gate walking towards the south

 Via San Giovanni to the San Giovanni Gate.

Through via San Matteo  lead  to Piazza del Duomo.

at Piazza del Duomo,  finds the  la Collegiata  (小教堂),

next to it is Town hall,  Palazzo del Popolo and Torre Grossa,

view from Tower Grossa (pic from wiki)***

opposite to La collegiate  is Palazzo Vecchio del Podest (1239),

the oldest tower,  from the stairs leads to Museo Civico, 

 

 

穿過廣場 行到去Palazzo Vecchio del Podesta (1239),

from the stairs in front of the la Collegiata

 

 

除了這些古建築，城中亦有不少藝術品收藏在 教堂、博物館裡。
Romanesque的La Collegiata 教堂,  Sant ‘Agostino, Museo Civico,
 Museo d’Arte Sacra。

Fresco of San Fatina Pic from web

The town also has several masterpieces of 14th- and 15th-century Italian art.  It is  an extraordinary treasure chest, not to miss.

小教堂 La Collegiata的Fresco, the two side are extensively covered with dramatic  cycles of scenes from the Bibles.



The north side comprise 26 episodes from old Testament, including the creation of Adam and Eve, Noah and his Ark , Moses crossing the Red sea and the creation (1367) by Bartolo di Fredi.

The south side are the life of Christ by Lippo Memmi,

While at the back of the Nave walls are scenes from the Last Judgement painted by Taddeo di Bartolo (1393- 36).

 









Piazza della cisterna,ringed by a group of unspoilt 13^th and 14 th century palazzo, built in 1237.
in Museo Civico , one of the last works to be painted by Pinturicchio. the Madonna with Saints Gregory and the Benedict (1511)

 

在城牆外便是一望無際的田野!

 

San Gimignano是山城, 城牆眺望 Val d’Elsa 葡萄vineyard,

這兒製造的白葡萄酒Vernaccia(DOCG)很出名，

歴史悠久，始於13世紀，其黄土沙泥地種植Vernaccia葡萄，

酒的顏色呈黃色，陳年後接近金黄Vernaccia白葡萄酒。

Many people think Tuscany white wine are less interesting than reds. Most Tuscan white wine is made from the Trebbiano grape called Galestro a dry bianco (white).

But Vernaccia di San Gimignano is an exceptionally good one.

 

Vernaccia (left)
1966年全意大利第一支獲得政府評為DOC (標準酒質控制)的白葡萄酒。



1993年更成為更高級的DOCG(酒質控制保証的標準)評價 。

DOC = Denominazione di Origine Controllata

DOCG = Donominazione di Origine Controllate e Garantita
義大利酒的歷史遠於羅馬時期，比法國的酒還早了幾百年，

而現今的義大利則與法國並列為葡萄酒的生產大國。

相較於其他國家的產區只集中在某些區域，

義大利由於是狹長型國土，又濱地中海的關係，

幾乎從北到南都是葡萄酒的產區。

為了方便管理，義大利於1963年制定了葡萄酒法規，

將義大利的葡萄酒分成四個等級。

其中DOCG、DOC標誌的是最優與次優的評定，基本上，

這兩種等級酒標上都會註明。

DOCG：Denominazione di origine controllata e Gauantita

原產地名稱管制保證。

此等級的酒生產規定嚴格，如土壤、品種的採用，

單位面積都有限制，還要求一定的歷史條件。

如托斯卡尼的Chianti 、皮蒙特Piemonte的Barolo都是此等級。

DOC：Denominazione di origine controllata原產地名稱管制。

表示此等級的酒有原產地葡萄種類、製造方法與貯存方式都須標示。.

Where to get wines in San Gimignano,

At via San Matteo, there are many trattoria and Osteria, enoteca (shops for wines) and shops for local product catered for the local residents. Price are better in compare with those at Via Giovanni.

On the way going up to the wall city, there are many Osterie (Osteria) for wine.  We have lunch at one of the Osterie and the food is delicious!



Vino Santo with Cantucci


Vino Santo is made from Holy wine is a traditional wine once made on farms throughout the region and now seeing a revival of interest from modern producers. It is sweet and often offered with Cantucci, small almond biscuits.

Vino Santo is made from Trebbiano and Malvasia madeinto wine and then aged in small barrels for a number of years before bottling. The best are very concentrated in flavour.



Shops closed on monday morning

www. San Gimignano.com

意大利飯 Risotto II

什麼是Risotto？

Risotto就是一道很著名很地道的意大利米飯──
意大利 有味飯！Risotto之所以著名，制作過程的苛刻,
體現了意大利人的熱情與細致！
就在對材料整個的調味過程精彩，能省功夫!!
把洋蔥 ,芹菜和胡蘿卜切成碎成為茸, 起鑊炒香

Risotto米飯里需要加的是蔬菜汁, 蔬菜高湯,
中國人傳統的米飯加水用燜就可以，
她需要的是20分鐘不停的攪拌, 不停加蔬菜汁,
保証不糊平底鍋里,加水就不是 Risotto !!  。 
在盛飯出鍋的時刻還要進行一個意大利特色工序：
就是在做好的米飯中加入parmasan cheese，

持續攪拌直至所有的cheese與之混合 。
直到此時，Risotto才算出現！
 
Risotto and Risi:  Italian Rice

米飯是中國人傳統的主食,意大利北方盛產米,
意北Lombardy 擁有片一平原 Po River Valle因此意北人也以稻米為主食, 也有自己獨特的米飯,
就是Risotto (Italian rice)!!  使用很常見的Arborio米 ，
Piemonte and Veneto ,Venetian 的Carnaroli ,
意大利米相比于中國大米，Italian rice更有韌性，
四種類穀粒, comune(ordinary), semifino, fino(small),
superfino(smallest). 

Arborio 是最合適Risotto的材料!

Italy is the leading producer of rice in Europe, with the majority of it being grown in the abundant Po river valley. Lombardy is home to the best rice growing area, the Lomellina, while Piedmonte and the Veneto also have bountiful rice harvests. Rice thrives so well in the 'Po valley' that first courses of risotto are more common than pasta and are a great way to serve whatever is in season, from seafood to wild mushrooms (such as Porcini) to meat and game.

Types of Italian Rice

Italy grows mostly short, barrel shaped rice that is different than the long-grain rice that is usually boiled or steamed. Among this type of rice are four categories based on grain size: comune, semifino, fino, and superfino.

The superfino rice is the type most used for risotto, with Arborio being the most recognized outside of Italy. However, Venetian cooks prefer the Carnaroli variety, which was invented in the 1950's. Baldo is another variety well-known for making excellent risotto and among the semifino; Vialone Nano is also popular - with the Veronese variety given a PGI designation.
燒紅鑊鑊加入橄欖油炒香洋蔥粒至金黃色 ！
   
Risotto Fredo

Rice salad, or insalata di riso, is one of those classic Italian summer dishes

意大利夏天熱浪迫人,氣溫節節上升,

夜晚的氣溫仍然30 C,  九月仍然熱到27, 28 C

唔願煮飯唔願煮pasta,  熱得太緊要, 食也唔願! 

整simple D , 來個沙律 cool 一 cool,

Insalate di riso !

If you are lazy  ,

只要煮熟啲飯,  放涼, 然後加把烚蛋  ,

加埋一樽沙律飯專用雜菜!mayonnaise




If you can't get mixed vegetables, here is the receipe,
one very popular Risotto in the summer is Rice salad or insalata di Riso 

1 1/2 cups (300 g) parboiled rice (the grains should not stick)

Either: An 8-ounce (200 g) can tuna, drained and shredded,

 and four canned sardines, boned and shredded Or: 1 hot dog,

cooked and sliced, and a 1/4 pound (100 g) slab of ham,

diced 1/4 pound (100 g) Fontina or Swiss cheese, diced

1/4 cup pitted, sliced black olives

 1 pickled bell pepper, diced

 2 ripe, peeled, seeded tomatoes, diced (optional)

1/4 cup mushrooms in oil, diced (optional)

1-2 tablespoons cooked peas (optional)

 1/4 cup pickled button onions (optional)

2 hard boiled eggs, sliced or quartered (optional)

1 tablespoon rinsed salted or pickled capers (optional)

 2 pickled artichoke hearts, sliced (optional)

1 tablespoon minced parsley 1/4 cup olive oil or mayonnaise

A tablespoon of lemon juice Salt and pepper to taste

(receipe from web)



Risotto caldo (hot Risotto)
Risotto alla Milanese
燒紅鑊加入橄欖油炒香洋蔥粒至金黃色，
加入意大利米炒，盛一羹雞湯贊入意大利米飯內，
炒至湯水收乾，然後再加入一羹雞湯(or 蔬菜高湯)，
以同樣方法再炒至收水，直至到用完雞湯為止，
大約20分鐘 , 加入蕃茜贊入白酒炒至收水，
把saffron 混合意大利米中，
然後將parmarsan cheese混合加,
在意大利米上，鹽及胡椒粉調味，完成上碟。

A well prepared risotto  may be the most rich and flavorful dish you may ever eat. Risotto is made with great care, braising the rice and allowing it to absorb the cooking liquid, usually broth.  The special rice used in the preparation lends its starches to the cooking liquid, giving the risotto a rich consistency that in some ways resembles a heavy cream sauce.

The actual braising of the rice is a standard procedure starting with the rice being toasted in a soffrito (chopped vegetables such as onion, garlic, carrots and celery), before broth is ladled in slowly. What makes each risotto unique is the local ingredients that give the dish its character.
 

hot Italian Rice -- ps refer to the previous blog for Crayfish Risotto and Risotto with truffles

different favour

Green (verde) -  with Asparagus, with pesto

yellow  (Giallo) -  with Saffron,  Risotto alla milanese 

Risotto alla Milanese is arguably the most famous Italian rice dish, flavored with saffron and resembles Spanish paella, which makes sense due to the Spanish rulership over Milan for nearly two centuries

black (nero)  - with Squid Ink,

brown (brun) - with porcini

 In Piedmonte it is not unusual to find risotto with truffles or made with red Barolo wine

white (biano) - 4 cheese quarto formaggi

Seafood Risotto

In the  Veneto and especially the city of Venice, seafood risotto is a mainstay, with risotto with sauted eels being a Christmas tradition.

in Liguria; Genoa(Genova), Savon(Savona), seafood risotto is very popular dish.

different type of ready made  Risotto , take 12 minutes to cook.

食到成個咀、成條脷黑哂--  Risotto with squid   食完馬上就刷牙!!!

Risotto is completely versatile, and goes just as well flavored with
cuttlefish ink (Nero di Sepia)

or with Prosciutto di San Danielle;

with butter and Parmigiano-Reggiano (added just before serving - Risotto Mantecato) or

with wildfowl like quail (Risotto con la Quaglie).

Whatever ingredients used, the cooking technique will blend and smooth out all of the flavors into one incredibly flavorful dish.