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2010年2月20日 星期六

迷失在熱帶雨林Lost in Tropical Forest



留尼旺島面積2,512平方公里,海岸線長207公里,島上最高峰約三千公尺,

有活火山拉夫艾斯。沿岸屬熱帶雨林氣候,終年濕熱;內部山地為高山氣候,

溫和涼爽。最熱月平均氣溫26℃,最冷月20℃。

5至11月為乾季,11月至次年4月為雨季。







火山上的植物

基本上除了小島西岸的平地及沿岸珊瑚礁及海灘, 百份之九+熱帶雨林,

如果要体驗 Lost 的熱帶雨林生活, 不防來這裡遠足, 島上有三條路線可串連,

 每條路線須約一星期才完成,要行足七天七夜沒問題啊! 最怕你不願行,

所以Rambo 家鄉 。

三條可串連路線包括Salazie, Cilaos, Mafate,

Mafate, 是三條路線最原始, 沒有完全開發, 提供豐富的天然資源,

最少人到, 除了各下一雙鐵腳, 沒友交通工具到達, 是遠足者的天堂,

沿途有不少珍禽異獸,花草樹木, 隨著高度及氣候變化,  







Mafate cirque

                



 

當年第一次到留尼旺剛巧遇著島上流傳著一種由蚊患傳播的病毒,屈公熱病

屈公熱病Chikungunya 會令人全身疼痛和發熱,病徵可以持續數個月,嚴重者會死亡。有「痛得將身體彎起來(背部傴僂)」之意。

 患病者徵狀和登革熱    十分相似,傳播媒介都是埃及    斑蚊和白紋依蚊,但是屈公熱會出現嚴重的關節痛症狀。病人會持續數周感疲倦,有發燒、起疹、頭痛、惡心、肌肉痛等症狀,關節痛持續數周至數月,嚴重者會影響工作。有些個案關節會痛得無法走動。







I did not go out in the first two months as there were a deadly virius 屈公熱 Chikungunya  spreading by mosquitos on the island. So far more than 200 people died in the past two months,  it was dangerous adn risky  to go around especially in places like forest and near rivers.

As the temperautre was dropping in may (it was almost winter in the Indian Ocean ),  the risks of explosing to mosquitos were getting lower. I decided to join a hiking tour (Randonee) with a guide in a tropical forest. 






後來, 在熱帶雨林內遠生, 走出我的第一次!!

One week day morning, I left for my adventure with all the precautions,  putting on long sleeves t- shirt and spraying as much as  mosquitoes repellent from top to bottom. My guide picked me up from my hotel and then we met three other tourists. There were four of us, one french young man and two other French women. I was the only asian who do not speak fluent french. 

                     



 



We made a brief stop in front of a gites/Bed & breakfast place as there was a wonderful view from this place towards  the opposite valley. (see above). Then c we started my first adventure. The guide showed us a lot of plants which were typical in the tropicals. His explainations was all in French as unxpected so I could  understand  about  40 %. But I still have a lot of fun, at that moment,  I was following  a popular American TV series "Lost"5 days a week in the hotel room, so it becomes more exciting when  I explore the forest!!

It was some bushes with low growing plants and we were matching in muddy road, a bit slippery. It was still fine at the beginning, after a while, we came to a soft muddy track, water ponds and  then soft muddy tracks again....for about 40 mins. It was raining the day before, so the soil has abosrbed a lot of rain. We followed the guide to look for a better spot. Sometimes, we have to put a piece of stone on the 瀾泥beng and water ponds.

I was slowing down as it was not easy for a city person like me. Luckily, I was wearing my hiking boots as some of the ponds are quite deep. Muddy water is coming up to the ankle. Sometines, we have to climb across some plants inorder to avoid the ponds. Without the boots, I can't imagine what will happen. For sure , I would have given up when I came here alone. I would not have walked on the muddy track like...."瀾泥beng".

The guide told us a few times to walk as fast as possible  or otherwise we might not be able to see that place. After about two and a half hour walk in the forest, we came to a place like a balcony. from it it give a "Wonderful"  view,   I found a 400 m water fall pouring our rapidly into the valley. It was really a spectacle. I take turns to take picture from the edge as it is really small











.                  

             





Then a few miniutes after I took the picture and video, there was a thick fog arriving to the valley. Within minutes, the waterfall was block, nothing could be seen. Those persons who arrived after us were very disappointed !!   




 It was a pity after spending so much efforts in hiking, having all the mud and soil on their boots, on their pants. They could not see the waterfall. 


I'm still glad that I have put it on the hands of a right person. Without the professional guide, we would not have arrived in time to see this spectacle. Pascal ! Merci beaucoup!!

By the way, if we want to get back to the car , there was still another two and a half hours to walk!! That night, my feet was so sore and I can not go anywhere the next day.!!





2010年2月18日 星期四

食在留尼旺

寒冷的天氣, 這兩天又再來侵, 全法國及意大利半島也不停下雪,

心也冷下來, 幸好中央暖氣靠得住, 否則要穿上毛衣吧!

這兩天電視傳來留尼旺的特輯,直升機緩緩升起,

放眼望去盡是藍天碧海, 翠綠的山谷,

每年+二月到一月是南半球的夏季,火山島上的一景一物,

每年這時候那裡的活火山也活躍起來, 再看到火山內熱烘烘的岩漿及

海灘上的珊瑚礁湛藍的印度洋 , 冷冷的心立刻溫暖起來,

想起那兒青擰的香味, 幸而這邊有兩家吃留尼旺菜的餐廳,

我們不時去回味,








由於人口由客家人、印度人及非洲人結合, 飲食文化也是印度化,

用上大量香了料, 她們叫這些咖喱Carri (Carry),  Massalé,

火山島盛產蕃紅花 Saffron, Saffron 是 常用於料理,

再加上 洋、蔥彊, 由南美洲傳入的蕃茄及其它香料,

也有不同成份香料的印度Massalé 。



當地人吃飯好簡單, 是飯和豆類為主, , 無論主菜是雞, 豬, 魚, 蝦,

腸 Roughail saucisses, 煙肉排Ti Jacque 等, 必定伴飯吃, 及一碗豆類,

Lentil , 紅腰豆之類的豆Red Bean 等和一些沙律(菜)。



這兒多印度教徒,  餐廳很少牛肉, 要吃牛扒便要自家弄或移玉步到法式餐廳。



這些Creole 咖喱, 本身不太辣, 吃時必定伴飯及再加三小碟Roughail

當地人餐桌上必有的三小碟 pepper Roughail , Archard, 

tomato Roughail , 一種當地秘製 spicy relish , side dish, 

 全是辣椒製成, Kimchi 一樣功能!

如是正宗必定辣到出煙,  內有洋蔥, 蕃茄, 辣椒油等等。






















另一伴菜Achard, 一種當地秘由白椰菜, 紫椰菜、紅蘿蔔切絲, 混合辣油,
下圖黃色小碟是芒果醬 Roughail Mangue (relice ) 不要以為生果便是甜不辣,

相反卻是辣到出煙, 辣到跳舞。
同印度咖哩飯的黃色芒果醬Mango Chutney同出一拙,  













頭盆炸魚丸,   內裡也混合了紅辣椒,











雜錦湃併盤有炸蝦, 炸丸子, 釀Crabe Farci, Boudin Creole 血腸,

Samosa, Bonbon piments, Achard du legumes,



Roughail Morue, 泰狄熊最愛, cod fish!




Cari de Langouste with ginger mangue

Combava or  The Kaffir lime is a citrus fruit 比青檸醜樣

這種綠色植物外形像青檸,味道是多酸味,

據說來自印尼,有一種獨有香味, 味道以檸檬葉, 

 當地人把皮磨下用來煮汁或加入咖哩

,


this is a lime which found in Reunion Island, it looks owesome..



Carri Langouste with Ginger and Mangue



coconut pudding,











好掛住Gateau Patate douce, 蕃薯 tarte



2008年5月11日 星期日

逛菜市場Marche Florian St Paul



may 11, 08

要了解一個地方的生活習慣便要逛當地菜市場,

在那兒去逛菜市場、超市是我每星期調劑生活的節目,

逢星期五在 St Paul市的黑色海沙的沙灘旁有 Market
對出海灣有魚排及一群海豚敘居!(Dolphins Safari- Video)







Florain市場是留尼旺這裡最大菜市場,
不止市場咁簡單,

分乾貨濕貨,乾有手工藝品如大小籐籃,非洲木刻、剌繡,

超大沙灘毛巾!







 

濕貨不單有蔬菜生果、肉類、魚、麵包,當地特式小吃,

小吃有中式燒賣 bouchon   各式咸料的中式春卷、咖哩角、

當地特式炸魚球, Bonbons piment 一種用豆製成再的小食,

等香口小食,每次也忍不住一邊行一邊食春卷,飲椰青!

濕貨還有新鮮花!


說起生果便開心好像回到香港及泰國,大量中式生果如芒果
波羅、龍眼、沙田柚、楊桃、大樹波羅Jacque 番石榴、

牛心果 Coeur de BeoufCorossol 番鬼荔枝Zatte ...


(pic from Meeyin 'blog)

這種肉質及味道像番石榴的goyavier (更正)
味道帶酸酸甜甜地,含大量維他命C ,

當地人用來做果醬,coulis ,果汁。

药用值高,可防治高血压、糖尿病,對於肥胖症及胃不佳之患者,最為理想之食用水果。蕃石榴的叶片和幼果切片晒干泡茶喝,可辅助治疗糖尿病。

營養價值::维他命C含量每100公克在900毫克左右,约為蘋苹果的10倍,俗称“女人的狗肉”或“极命果”(連皮带芯均可食用)。

番石榴 info  http://baike.baidu.com/view/333729.html

 




牛心果 Custard-apple Coeur de Beouf

泰國叫Thai - noi-na , 越南叫 na肉質似番鬼荔枝!

The fruit is good to eat as is but also makes a sweet drink and can be used as a milk substitute.




Image:Cherimoya cut hg.jpg
  番鬼荔枝

The unripe fruit as been used to assist against diarrhea and dysentery. The tree bark is used for skin and mucosae medicines and the seed bark contains useful tannins and astringents. The leaves are generally healing and have been used against tumors and cancers. The bark has been used on gums to relieve toothache.

info from

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Custard-apple
 

印尼青檸Combava

這種綠色植物外形像青檸,比青檸醜樣的果,味道是與青檸差不多酸味,以檸檬葉, 皮也是有一種獨有香味的,當地人可用作煮汁或加入咖哩,據說來自印尼!當地人把皮磨下用來煮 Rougail, 煮魚,蝦Samousa 等,
或做 Combava Punch, Combava Sorbert !




留尼旺盛產 Safron ,此外也有大量香料在市場,Coriander, Cardamone , Muscade, Baies roses (rose Pepper),  ginger, Piment, Cannele,  Green and black pepper, Vanilla, 



留尼旺盛產這種植物用來整西式蛋糕與甜品最好

雲里那 Vanilla, 正名香子蘭,是原產於墨西哥的一種蘭花,
台灣人稱它為「香草」,而香港人則稱之為「雲呢拿」。
以氣根攀附樹木生長。它的開花期很短暫,大概只有一天,

經授粉後會結出豆莢狀的果實, 果實經過乾燥發酵後,

會帶有濃郁的香氣。將香子蘭的豆莢採集後,

進行日曬和乾燥等加工後,豆莢會變成黑色,

並且會有馥郁芳香。

目前,非洲馬達加斯加是全球最大的雲呢拿生產國,

是當地的經濟命脈, 而由於生產過程需要大量勞動力,

所以雲呢拿是僅次於番紅花(Saffron)外,全球最昂貴的香料之一。

但由於它的獨特香氣,即使價格高昂,

雲呢拿仍然被廣泛應用在製作蛋糕、雪糕、香水以及香薰等用途。
 




 


   辣到飛起的辣椒Piment!




合手瓜 Chouchou! 還學燒西式合手瓜,Gratin chouchon !
先用煙肉炒香再加奶油焗!

在市場可看到留尼旺多元化的人種, 留尼旺人口約有70萬,

主要為非洲、法國血統的居民,留尼旺約有兩萬多華人,

以廣東梅縣和順德人為主,客家人就占了一半以上。

留尼旺的客家人,大部分在1901年至1939年二戰前,

移民到留尼旺,經過一百年,這批客家人早已繁衍出四、五代,

每年關聖帝君聖誕時,大家還會聚集在關帝廟舉辦數千人的筵席,

以聯絡感情,然而,年輕一輩早已不知關聖帝君信仰的意義,

客語與華語對他們來說,已經是相當陌生的語言了。

這便是第一代留尼旺客家人移民故事。

三百多年前留尼旺島迎來第一批移民,隨後法國東印度公司又陸續引入白人

及非洲黑奴,建立起留尼旺的甘蔗、咖啡等農產業。

1844年,留尼旺島廢除奴隸制度,解放黑奴,但當地甘蔗種植,需要大量勞力,

因此留尼旺政府開始引進更廉價的印度及中國勞工。




2008年4月30日 星期三

火山爆發the day after


火山溶岩不下十次把這國道切斷,每次也有石碑記下不同年份1986, ,1976, 1943, 2001, Jan 2002, nov-dec 2002, 1998, 1961, 1931(2007 我沒有看到),但置身其中真的十分鎮憾,溶岩直流到岸邊,尤其溶岩經過的地方所有樹木全部寸草不留,沒有力量可以阻止, 無論你多強悍多硬淨,一個火山爆發什麼也灰飛煙滅,無言以對很失落,心裡不禁想起人類的妙小;縱使什麼超級大國,擁有什麼核子道彈,也阻止不到火山的威力!























Lava was cutting across the route a couple of times in the past ten years during Volcanic Eruptios. Stones signs were placed to mark the incidents,1986, ,1976, 1943, 2001, Jan 2002, nov-dec 2002, 1998, 1961, 1931, recently 2007...





the following film was realised  on wednesday  8 novembre 2006 par Reunionbysat au Dolomieu.

 Le cratere de Dolomieu (2525 M

wel! it is a bit dangerous to go there like that, I will not encourage!


       
火山爆發 Eruption of Piton de la Furnaise in 2007.

When we were there the Piton de la Furnaise woken up twice! However,no one could see  the live volcanic eruption without walking for about 2 hours to the near by mountain. The entire area was condoned off due to security reason. We saw the spectacular in the TV.


離這段路最有一小鎮,每當火山爆發,這鎮St Rose 便要徹離,有一1976溶岩迫近一座教堂週邊,眼看教堂快要被流到的溶岩吞食,就在這時溶岩在教堂入口的石階停止前進,教堂至今仍原好無缺,眼前的景象是巧合嗎?或是神蹟?水晶晶不是教徒,卻不由得不信這是 Miracle!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4A2NQ-z3iss&NR=1
 
3段片是數年來Piton de la Furnaise 多次火山爆發,地質科學家穿著保護衣物於溫度高達千多度的火山口進行研究,研究流出的溶岩成份!




相關網誌

上火山le Volcan 1

火山第ニ擊+ Grand Bassin 2 (new video)

三顧火山Volcano 3 (updated)




2008年4月11日 星期五

上火山le Volcan 1



又回到二年前火山島留尼旺! Mar 19, 2006



Map


The red cirlcle is where the volcanos is situated

Photos from Web geocities 第一次上火山去 !!Le Volcano -Piton de la Fournaise




這次是我們第一次上火山探險,在沒有週詳計劃下,泰狄熊又玩即興;那天星期日風和日麗,我們本在熱辣辣與熱鬧的海灘上曬太陽,可能見到人山人海有些壓迫感,想到另一個大自然去探討!這時南半球正好是三月份的秋天,氣溫不會熱爆是上火山探險的好時機!

一路上太陽伯伯也謹貼我們,看來第一次上火山應該不曾空手而回吧!高原上的植物由如亞爾卑斯山,有很多青蔥的松樹也有草原,一點也不像在熱帶小島!?? 聽說松樹是多年前由日本移植以防泥土風化 soil erosion,島上根本沒有松樹這科植物! 我倆到還見到有運動健兒踏單車上千多公尺的火山,汽車上山也覺吃力,真是勇氣可加!

One sunday morning,  after spending some time on the lagoon.  Teddy said, tesoro !! let's go to the Volcano!!" It was a sunny day when we left from the west coast in mid march. It was at autumn in southern hemisphere.   The heat was not so intense and stuffy but it was still more than 30 C on the coast.  

On the way acrossing the Plain, We saw many people pedalling up the  mountain, what a great courage !! on  the way we saw many Alpine trees and pasture for raising cows and sheeps. Oh !! look at the landscape, all green green, green, like the Alps . There is an area with pine trees too, in an tropical Island . Later,  I was told  a local guide , those pine trees came from Japan . This time, we can see the paysage.










就在這時開始有一朵黑雲在頭上,未幾更下起雨來,唉天有不測之風雲!可憐健兒們也成了落湯雞,我倆愛莫能助!既然已上了山,餘下十公里不夠,沒理由空手而回,於是邊下雨邊繼續前進,未幾聽見balap ! balap! 聲由車頂上傳來,不好了是冰溥,地上還有點雪霜,可想氣溫有多冷,我們只穿了沙灘裝!

莫非上天真的要考驗我們? 要我們三顧火山! Teddy said his "Personal cloud is always coming with him".  After a while, it started raining heavily. I was thinking about the althelets on the ride !!  

All  of a sudden, there was a mist moving very fast and soon we saw black clouds moving towards us.  Teddy said his "Personal cloud is always coming with him".  After a while, it started raining heavily. I was thinking about the athletes on the ride !!  

Since we were already there and we wouldn't like to give up and of all the way back without seeing anything, so we kept on moving.  The more we went up and the worst it was, I heard hails falling on the roof of our car. When we reached the summit, snow mixed with  rain dropping on our windshield.  It was damn cold and we only have our beach wear !! 

 
未幾終於看到斜坡下的地方的泥土有點奇怪,但看地圖及那裡的旅遊指示牌,還未到達火山啊!這裡是Pas de Bellecomb,但煙霧迷漫能見度只有伸手幾米,遠看好一個月球 feel





 深啡色的沙石泥土間中有點紅紅的,又有點像溶岩,雖然下著雨唯有一手拿雨傘一手拍照,我們決定到下邊實地感覺一下像到了火星的感覺,真的還以為自已在星球大戰的電影內, 哈哈!以前星球大戰的電影是否在這裡景呢?






We arrived at Plaines des Sables, it is a place  like "the surface on the moon". 好月球 feel. I feel like I was in the movie of Star war. Perhaps it was shot here. . Finally, the rain stop and we arrived Pas de Bellecomb, yet it was  misty and foggy, we cant  see too far away.




these two pics were ticken on our second visit

that's why there was a clear sky!




雖然下著雨我倆決定不後退,只差三公里便到達火山公園,公園內有指示到觀看火山的平臺,這兒仍是煙霧迷漫,伸手不見伍指,仍然看不到火山的身影,牙關打鎮冷得在發斗,於是到小屋內喝墊熱朱古力!
 


Col de Bellecombe 03.jpg



煙霧迷漫,伸手不見伍指..

As it was about 10 degrees and i was shivering!! The pic below is what we saw the first time, this house is a kiosk and we bought some hot chocolate there. !!, We tried to walk towards the entrance of the park, but I can't see anything !!  where is the Volcano !! 

上天真的要考驗我們!! We have to come back here again.

After that some friends told us that we have to go to the volcano very early otherhwise you can't see anything.
          
       

2008年4月10日 星期四

印度神打 ?Indian New Year (更新自拍video)



又回到二年前火山島留尼旺!

那年復活節的long weekend (Apr 16- 17 ) 我與泰狄熊作了環島之旅, 小島面稿積細小,駕車三、五小時己可走完,我倆想到南部的沙灘 Grand Anse 走走而沿海風景也十分吸引,又聽說南部曾有公路數次被火山溶岩流過的,也有溶岩從海岸噴出等自然形成的奇特觀景,東部有些美麗瀑布!





Valley near St Pierre in south!

Grand Anse Beach in the south!




Cascade Langevin @ St Joseph





















Lava was cutting across the route a couple of times in the past ten years during Volcanic Eruptios. Stones signs were placed to mark the incidents,1986, ,1976, 1943, 2001, Jan 2002, nov-dec 2002, 1998, 1961, 1931, recently 2007...

溶岩直流到海水,沒有力量可以阻止!

this pc from http://www.flickr.com/

那星期剛巧是印度泰米爾族的慶祝新,約四月十五日黃昏我們於 St Paul 看到了一些印度泰米爾族的民化活動,舞蹈、雜技、武火球等,後來18在南部 St Andre St Rose所以看到新年遊行打鑼打鼓,儀式從三時至旁晚六時,他們帶著聖像、香火遊行,其中一隻面像小象的,女士們頭頂著載滿鮮花滕籃子,包括蓮花、蘭花、南瓜、合手瓜、果子(花生)、白米等供奉神靈,也有女士們頭頂著火盤!


 


St Rose 看到類似神打般的儀式(video後補),三十多名口中念念有詞的男士赤腳走火炭;相傳是泰米爾族的成年男士新年期間的宗教儀式,目的是為了表示身體與靈塊的潔淨,以等待新年的來臨,有些未夠道行的好像感到焯熱大步走過,還有一名故意向後退!他們真的感受不到火炭的焯熱!真系眼界大開!

有些男士他們把 六、七隻 hooks 往背上穿,真的六、七隻   吊到背上,不一會見到有些人用長叉往嘴唇上插,向橫穿過面珠,口中念念有詞,還是若無其事般走路,我站在旁毛管也向上豈,打冷震!最最最要命是那個成身 hook的人就在我前面行過我卦住研究是否真的 "au"在皮膚上,有沒有血等,忙記映相!

天啊!好像真的不痛,但我卻覺難受啊!

救命呀!




印度泰米爾族的人每次入廟時也有習慣用水把腳清洗以表示潔淨!


April 28

Hindu religious is full of plant ith symbolic meaning.

蓮花是宇宙萬物旦生的根源,Brahmal 蓮花的花辮去做山、山谷、河流。

Lotus is consider to be the birthplace of Universe, Brahmal was born in the lotus plant, he received the world and converted the petals into hills, valley, Rivers.

椰子代表純潔。

Coconut is the symbol of purity.

Basil is a divine herb, sacrified to Vishma whose relatives cure sterility.

雞蛋花是靈塊的棲息地。

The Fangipani is the symbol of immortal, it is the resting place of the soul.



 













Part II







Part III

 











Very artistic temple!

 can see that they are devoted to their religious!

Three colours around the pagodas of Reunion

The Red, sacred to Koli, is symbolized by the flowers of the pagodas.

The white, sacred to Maryammd, is symbolized by the frangipani.

The yellow sacred to Panchali  is sacred by African Marigold, or by the Dawf poincians

From Wikapiedi

Puthandu, (Tamil) also known as Varusha pirappu, is celebrated as New Year's Day in Tamil Nadu. It is celebrated on the first day of the Tamil month Chithirai, which falls on the 13th or 14th of April.

 Women draw patterns called kolams. A lamp called a kuttuvilaku is placed on the center of the kolam, to eradicate darkness. A ritual called kanni takes place. Kanni means 'auspicious sight'. People watch jewellery, fruits, vegetables, flowers, nuts, rice etc., as it is a belief among Tamil people that it brings prosperity. People wear new clothes and special dishes are prepared for the occasion.